The cold air that enters the room via the window will be balanced out by the warm air that rises from the radiator.  If you fit a radiator opposite a window you are likely to cause a draught in the room.  This is because the warm air rising on one side of the room against the cold air falling on the other side will exacerbate the air flow difference around the room.  However, if you have double glazed windows the problem is not as great and you can therefore position your radiators more flexibly.  This is useful if you have long curtains which might cover the radiator under the window.  

From a practical perspective, the wall underneath the window does not usually have furniture against it. The unused wall space can therefore be covered by a radiator and you do not have to worry about furniture against it.

The first thing you must do is turn off your heating system and isolate its electrical supply.  Leave the system to cool if you have had it on recently.  If you have a vented system you will need to close the water supply from the feed and expansion system or header tank. 

To drain down the system you must locate the drain valve within your system.  This is usually located at the lowest point in the pipe work.  It includes an outlet where you can attach a hose.  You should attach a hose there and run it to a suitable location outside where the water can drain out freely.  You should secure the hose with a jubilee clip to reduce the likelihood of leaks.  You can now open the drain valve to enable the system to drain down.  Additionally, open the air bleed valve on your radiators upstairs to allow all water to drain down.  Remember to close them when you have finished draining down.

Refilling your Central Heating System

Once you have drained your system down you can remove the hose you used.  If you have a vented system simply turn the water supply on via the feed and expansion tank.  This will enable water to flow back into your central heating system.

If you have a sealed or unvented system you must connect the filling loop.  This is situated under the boiler.  You need to open the filling loop and then re-pressurise the system.  This should be done according to the manufacturer’s guidelines.

You can now open the bleed valve of each of your radiators (one at a time).  This will release any air.  You should start with the downstairs ones first. 

One advantage of under tile heating is that it is a very selective process.  Unlike conventional heating, which targets the entire room broadly, it is possible to be selective with under tile heating.  The actual wires that provide energy to the system need to only occupy about 50 per cent of the room, rather than the entire room.  Often, the wires can be placed under furniture and in other unobtrusive locations.

Under tile heating provides soft, even heat throughout an entire room.  Conventional systems often leave pockets of cold air, particularly closer to the floor.  That will not be the case with under tile heating.

Under tile heating also has the advantage of not disturbing the air.  The heat rises naturally and slowly.  Under tile heating does not create any sort of air current.  It therefore does not stir dust or other particles that could serve as irritants.

Many people also like under tile heating because of its low maintenance.  It can be installed either by the homeowners themselves, or by a professional.  Many companies offer installation services, and several websites describe how to install under tile heating for those who want to try to do it themselves.  Additionally, even after installation, the homeowner should not need to worry about maintaining the system.

Solid fuel boilers are prone to sluggish performance after a few years, due to the accumulation of soot in the flue ways and ash clogging up the grate and occasional cleaning should rectify these issues. With gas-fired boilers the most usual problem is trouble with the pilot light, thermostat or automatic ignition system.

There is a small screw just under the pilot light on the gas valve that you can try adjusting if the light keeps going out.  If this does not work, then a blocked nozzle will probably be the cause and this can be cleaned using a pricker.  Be prepared to remove the main burner assembly to access the blockage. The nozzle may have to be replaced if it shows signs of wear or if it is solidly blocked.

Another cause for the pilot not lighting is a problem with the thermocouple, and this can be removed using its fixing nuts. Straighten out the new thermocouple and slide it onto the fixing nuts, one is next to the pilot and the other is at the gas valve. Give the new thermocouple a test before fixing everything together again.

Underfloor heating can be laid beneath tile, laminate, wood and heat resistant carpet, and can be installed on top of any kind of sub-floor, including concrete, floorboards, plywood or screed.  Underfloor heating is not restricted to new-build homes, and can easily be accommodated in old house refits and renovations.

One of the many benefits of underfloor heating is that bulky, wall mounted radiators may be disposed of once and for all, leading to more space and cleaner lines in our interiors.  Underfloor heating is well suited to small or awkwardly shaped areas where radiators will not fit.

A more even heat distribution is achieved by having the heat source at ground level, as opposed to on the walls.  Underfloor heating is widely accepted to be more energy efficient and economical than central heating systems in terms of running costs.

In bathrooms and kitchens, underfloor heating dries out floors quickly, thus reducing the unhealthy growth of mould and fungi.  In addition, there is less air movement in homes with underfloor heating, leading to less dust movement, and this can benefit allergy sufferers.

If your heating system needs an overhaul and you are looking for a DIY challenge, underfloor heating might be the answer.

Most radiators are designed with function at the fore, and as such, do not hold much aesthetic appeal.  However, in recent years, the boom in householders self-designing their interiors has helped to drive an expansion in the range of designer radiator styles on offer in the consumer market.

Designer radiator styles are as varied and diverse as the homes in which they are eventually placed.  Homeowners can choose from “off the shelf” pre fabricated designer styles or can enlist the help of a personal designer to help them create a bespoke style for their bathrooms.

Designer radiators are a great combination of style and function and, by dint of their traditional metal and tubular construction, bathroom radiators lend themselves well to being metamorphosed into an eye catching conversation piece.

Designer radiators are available in wall fitted horizontal and vertical designs, or those with a little more space to play with may wish to push the boat out and install a sculpture-inspired freestanding piece to complete a contemporary look.  For bathrooms where space is at a premium features such as a towel bar can be incorporated into design.

The new models of bathroom radiators have come a long way since the older floor models.  The new models are long and slim, generally running vertically.  This shape allows for them to be multi-functional by doubling as a towel warmer as well.  If installation is what is stopping you from adding a new bathroom radiator to your home, is a basic guide to installing a new bathroom radiator.

Using the manufacturer’s instructions, attach the bathroom radiator to the wall.  It is imperative that you now cut off the electricity to the room.  Run the cable route to a fused socket outside the bathroom.  If there is not a fused outlet outside the bathroom you will have to install one.  Take professional advice on this, as some electrical installations in homes now have to be carried out by a qualified engineer.

Once you get your cable route figured out feed the flex into the outlet and connect the cable to the terminals.

If you are at all unsure about electrical work, particularly when it involves bathrooms, contact a qualified electrician.  Better to be safe than sorry.

The more common causes of boiler failure are that it is not receiving power, the thermostat is faulty, the boiler has a low level of water and needs refilling or that the pilot light has gone out so the gases will not ignite.

Before calling out boiler repairs Sunderland (www.boilerrepairssunderland.co.uk), check a few of these possible causes for yourself, as you may be able to fix the problem.  Check that power is getting to the boiler by inspecting the fuse in the mains supply and replace it if it has blown.

Every hot water boiler has an automatic filling system.  If the water pressure has dropped, manually release the water feed valve to bring the pressure up to about 12psi.

The gas control valve located near the burner might have been closed off for some reason, so open it if this is the case.

If the pilot light has gone out, which is one of the most common reasons for a boiler failing to ignite, simply reset it in accordance with instructions usually displayed on the inside of the boiler.  If they are not there, check the instruction manual and also see if any fault indicator lights are lit.

If the thermostat is faulty, an engineer will have to be called in to fix it.

For example, towel-warmer radiators serve two purposes, warming towels as well as heating the room. Hung on the wall, they only project a few centimetres and are very unobtrusive. Consider painting an accent wall a bright colour and hanging the radiator there for a modern design statement. 

Other radiators are manufactured in shapes and designs that are, in and of themselves, works of art. Circular, tubular and even wave designs in chrome, brushed metal or even coloured metals will instantly add style and comfort to your bathroom. 

Especially during the summer months, you can usually find designer bathroom radiators on sale. Most of them come with all the hardware needed to install them, although typically the radiator valves are purchased separately, as many designs are available.

Today’s bathroom radiators supply gentle, quiet heat and many can be installed to a programmable thermostat, saving you money on your power bills. Programme your new bathroom radiator to turn on an hour or so before you wake and turn off when you leave for work and you’ll only heat the room for the time needed.

Replace that worn-out radiator with a sleek, slim design that will save you money.

Normally, when installing an underfloor heating system, the thermostat is located in the same room as the system. However, when installing an under tile heating system in a bathroom, the thermostat must be placed outside of that room. A 13-amp underfloor heating thermostat can control a maximum of 3000 watts, a 15-amp thermostat will control up to 3450 watts, and a 16-amp thermostat controls a maximum wattage of 3680 watts.

If two or more heating cables are connected to a single thermostat, an electrician’s connector block with a sufficient amps loading should be used.  For controlling underfloor heating systems larger than 3680 watts, you can either divide the heated area into two separate zones, each controlled by its own thermostat, or otherwise use a contactor.

Contactors

Contactors are used when a single thermostat is being used to control an underfloor heating system that exceeds 3680 watts, or 16 amps total loading. In general, suitable home-use contactors are designed to control up to 22,000 watts of heating cable, or a total loading capacity of 96 amps. Look for a contactor that includes a DC coil for silent operation.

Installing a Floor Sensor

It is important to place the floor sensor in a suitable location near the thermostat, so the first line of business is to determine where the thermostat will be placed. Then, following the manufacturer’s instructions, cut a channel in either the sub-floor or the insulation (if used). Always ensure the sensor is properly sealed to prevent damage from levelling compound or tile adhesive.

An underfloor heating supplier such as Floor Heating Online can help you choose the right thermostat and contactor for your underfloor heating system.